...always a Siam Kingdom? (that is, until 1767!)
Over the years and after - what may be, seven elusive stops (ok, includes passing throughs) in Bangkok, I finally found myself in this historic mystical site. Despite its close 70-80km distance from Bangkok, I'd generally and ignorantly skip the destination of Ayutthaya on those seven occasions and head on up to Chiang Mai, Kanchanburi...or pelt off to another neighbouring country - um..or whizz off home to the UK.
The reason for leaving out poor Ayutthaya might be due to the fact that:
1. I've never got hold of a Thailand guide book to swing me into the right location(s).
2. I was put off by the general calibre of tourists that visited (Yes. I know. Wrong. Wrong in so many ways. Wrong assumptions). Generalisations should never really be made.
3. I didn't want to be a sheep.
4. Or it may be that I'm generally not a number one fan of ruins?
5. Or it might well be the fact that I felt all high and mighty after being one of the many billions to have witnessed the infamous Angkor Wat in Cambodia - "pfff..I've seen it all before. Nothing can beat Angkor Wat... once you've seen the 'best', it's hard to be satisfied". Not only that, I'd witnessed the ancient Burmese temple beauty of Bagan a couple of years back too....(not a gloat, I promise!)
6. Templed out?
7. (probably the truest reason..) Lazy?
This time I was a little more determined. It had been years since my visit to Angkor Wat and a couple of years since Bagan, and for gawd's sakes, it was time to jump (or fall off) that high horse I'd been badly balancing on. Primarily, I felt the motivation to dig a little deeper. Deeper to finally discover a segment of the rich and ancient history of a country I adore and class as a 'second home', almost...
From BKK to AYT
Arriving in the old capital; Ayutthaya from the current capital of ol' BKK can be done via many ways. Travellers of such a journey are spoilt by the several modes of transport offered. Strangely enough, the bus is faster than the train. No surprises as to what mode I chose then...? The train of course! Trains are a brilliant form of transportation. Not only do I preach on these automobiles, but after having visited Thailand a few times, this would be the first train journey I'd embark on. Unheard of, I know! Yetanother virginity broken! Boy, was I on a roll...
I'd also been told that only too soon these traditional trains will die out and will be replaced with modern speed trains on the new and proposed Kunming-Singapore Railway (have a read). Scary stuff. Seven years to go before BIG THINGS HAPPEN. Placing a mark in history, this traditional opportunity was surely NOT to be missed. Given all these weighted reasons, the Train it had to be.
The trains were indeed frequent running every hour or so. They were also S L O W, busy, steamy hot, hard-seated and to make it even more exciting, the 2hr 30m hour (predicted at 1hr 45m) train journey cost a shocking and extortionate 15 Baht!!! That's 30p. Thirty Pence. Yes, siree. It was indeed a fun journey though - fun to admire the country folk and to wonder what destinations they be heading to, however I wasn't in my typical sociable mood to investigate as to where to..
Le Train
First steps into AYT - jardin de tuk tuk
First and foremost, on my arrival at Ayutthaya train station and after pondering and asking other tourists who were on their way out of Ayutthaya on which hotel to park myself at and how to get there, I eventually decided on jumping into a tuk tuk typed taxi. It's always fun haggling the price down, especially when it's just me going for the ride. Note: There are both pros and cons to travelling alone and this is one of the few cons = highly priced taxi rides. The banter between driver and I were quite funny up until the point where he decided to take me on a detour and show me a recommended guesthouse to stay at (where he'd engage in a little commission). I wasn't pleased..No. "Please get me to Tony's Place!!!!! I asked you for Tony's Place!!" - okay okay, off we were...and back to banter we were! "You're cheeky..", I laughed and claimed as I then began to realise how much pride he took in his tuk tuk. His bright and colourful tuk tuk had its very own mini garden of pot plants which were certainly well groomed of. Oh the pride. Such cuteness and invigoratingly dashing. His sweet floral presentation really did contrast his cheekiness and his XL character. I give in - I guess they've all got to try to make a living somehow.
Note: Tony's Place was full due to its popularity. I headed off next door to Mr Tom's instead owned by an English husband and Thai wife. A little noisy (looked onto the road) but a definite budget gem!
Tiny selection of notes about the place
Summarised history snippet: After Sukothai, Ayutthaya became the second Siamese (Thai) capital in c.1350 and continued flourishing from the 14th century through to the 18th. Its location was strategically chosen being located on an island surrounded by three rivers connected to the sea. I'm slightly lazy to write about history and I am in no way a historian of any sort - I may also play faux pas in narrating such facts, so you are able to find out more information about the second capital and its kingdom here. Selected notes are noted below...
I want to ride my...
Cycling around the UNESCO Ayutthaya Historical Park was indeed a breath of fresh air; 40 baht a day for a bicycle - you can't go wrong. In addition, I decided to jump on a boat that sailed on the moat of Ayutthaya Ancient City just to get some scenic water movement involved.
Wat Mahathat On a little discovery with a new friend from Beijing, the Buddha in the Tree was stunning albeit a busy sight! Myriads! In addition, whilst wandering through the most famous of sites: Wat Mahathat, and attentively absorbing the entertaining and British narrations of the recorded guided tour, as well as absorbing the thick heat, I realised that today (well, the day i had visited) was 7th April. Oblivious, it so happened - I'd learnt, that Ayutthaya had been invaded on and ultimately destroyed on this very day 246 years ago in 1767 by their neighbours; The Burmese. Oh m'Buddha! This was a sign. I don't know what sign. But, I passed on my blessings anyhow.
Wat Phra Ram Reached by boat. This is a gorgeous spot to find yourself at sunset with its submissive peacefulness, tranquility and ambience. It's here I really did imagine life wandering around this temple as it were during the peak of Ayutthaya Kingdom. The palatial and grandeur vibes were flowing (note: a self shot could not be helped! Happy to witness such beauty. Smug)
More Photos to put words and imagination to an image/place
Large reclining Buddhas, Gold-leafed Buddhas, Disintegrating Buddhas, Green leafed areas, Hot & sweaty. Ahh...
Divine. These ruins are something else..eloquent in their manner. And after all those 250+ years, despite the invasion, there is retained and obvious beauty. The Buddhas definitely add to the exquisite magic and mystique. Hats off to the builders and the designers at the time.. it all had a meaning and reason in its construction. These are true efforts. I often find myself asking the same question: Why on earth do we not build like this anymore? Its all become too simple, shallow, 'economical' and basically 'MDF-fied'. Where's the real passion, love?
Can I compare thee to Cambodia's Wats or Burma's Bagan? No. They're just different. A very different form of beauty.
I promise to stay off my high horse and continue walking...as this Thai (Siam) history is a gem! x
To the reader: I'd love to hear if you've visited before! Do share your feelings...please?
MaySW visited Ayutthaya in the first week of April 2013
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