A small authentic town still rich in its traditions. A town that begs for more subtleness and is notably smaller in size compared to its neighbouring, commericalised and overly-boisterous towns of Dali and Lijiang. This is Shaxi. In three words (quite simply): It is great.
Shaxi's market square "Sideng" is what holds the attention of the town. When visiting, I found it to be peaceful and charming...even a bunch of racous people couldn't spoil the decency and quality epitomised in this place. I purely loved it for sticking to its traditions and its ability to veer away from such commercialism (Note: as of April/May 2013!). The spacious square is surrounded by a small handful of independent restaurants and intricate hotels, not to mention its noticeable temple, a hidden museum and Chinese structures. The town itself has its famous water supply running timidly through it. At first hand, all I could witness under the concrete paving slabs was running "white coloured water" ? I found this to be a very odd attribute of the town but soon realised it was due to the plastering renovations taking place on a building located in one of the hidden alleyways. Shaxi's water draingage system was acting as its bathtub! Ah, the bliss of community.
Every town has one, including Shaxi...
Being so firm in its antiquity, Shaxi manages to retain its historic market town abilities by holding a Friday Horse Market where trading of horses, pigs and the like are sold/exchanged. The local market also takes places on this last weekday unifying the locals of the region selling their produce - vegetables, meat and noodles and whatever else. A market stall dentist cropped up a few times; however due to its unusualness, I'm sure the dentists have been papped a few times which led them to be anti-targeted/paparazzi'd by us tourists. Their refusal was definitely at the ready and firm and righteous as harsh as can be!
Staying in such a centrally located hostel: Horsepen 46, of this teeny town, was not only inexpensive, it was well-thought-out, rustic and managed an excellent system of offering a group-guided Saturday trek through the surrounding mountains of Shaxi. This trek was offered for free given that the trekker - in exchange, would act as rubbish collector whilst on the journey i.e. a community service. A little longer than I'd expected, the trek was gorgeous..climbing the peak of the mountain to find gorgeous historic Chinese settlements, derelict temples and to be at one with trees, pine cones and innocent fresh air. I found myself at the end of the trek not only a little worn out and trying to disguise my panting with smiles, but also contrastingly energised with a plastic bag of mixed rubbish (mainly cigarette stubs) in hand; reflecting my other six trekking partners. I found it a tad surprising that one week could accumulate so much rubbish for such an unknown trek in such an area unspoken of!? Well, it was a special deed, indeed!
Pedals
A long hilly cycle ride led us to the White Dragon Pool; a pool heavily preached by the local Bai people as "good water". So heavily preached, that a lone and sleepy security guard protects the pool in a protective and defensive manner. Visiting this pool, we passed many a many local Chinese villages, ancient bridges and a number of eagerly awaiting hills. Out. of. breath.
More photos to feast your perhaps curious eyes on below. I admit, they are a little on the dark side - I believe I may need a lesson in adjusting exposures/light capturing/ISOs?!
....Unspoilt and traditional. This is exactly what I was searching for old Yunnan. Xie Xie x
Note: On the downside, despite being 'unspoilt and traditional', it was discovered that a huge renovation was taking place in Shaxi's old town and it seems due to the speedy dedicated Chinese workmanship - that in a few months or so, that small town of Shaxi; so rich in its traditions and beautiful crusted construction, will hold a complex that might essentially 'stick out like a sore thumb' (very sad face). It's official. Lovely Shaxi will be seeing its very own 5* hotel and slightly commercialised shopping area. Oh dear...
>Shaxi town & around
>Friday Marketday
>Shaxi Faces
>May as well get involved myself..NiHao Shaxi friends!
Note: I've never had a dog companion and this doggy up here proved to be one that I felt really attached to for only 2-3 hours as well; not even! I was in tears upon leaving her...!
