I've met a number of visitors to Vietnam who share varying thoughts on the Vietnamese population. This, being pinpointed at the northern region of the country (where I'm currently based).
Whilst some may find the Vietnamese direct, forceful, aggressive, short/hot-tempered, greedy (money-wise), argumentative and grumpy - some, in contrast may find them sweet, warm, generous, helpful and cute as a nut. Both, I think, are not false accusations – but naturally.. I'm weighted towards the positives. My guesses are, it depends on which angle you hit them at, and of course, the location i.e. tourist areas may deem more futile!
I believe it's a two-way process. What you give, is definitely what you get. You smile, they usually smile. Coming from a non-super trooper attitude, my experience so far of the Vietnamese is consistently positive. Perhaps my non-existent Vietnamese language skills promotes my naive behavior – such that I'm unable to detect the negative teasing, sniggering and criticism that potentially takes place between themselves regarding us foreigners (because, believe me, my ears have burnt and palms itched a number of times!). But all in all, I reckon they are a cool bunch of people.
Whilst you are not usually faced with the sweet unprovoked smiles that are easily generated from the neighbouring countries of Thailand, Cambodia and Laos (much of which I'm very fond of), the Vietnamese generally palm off a stern frown – perhaps obnoxious looking. But this, to me, is truth, diligence, a hardworking opportunistic ethic and directness. I like it. You; as a tourist – initially, must be: thick-skinned, sharp and a quick reactor. There's nothing more fun than pushing in line. I’ve developed a love and a profound utility for my elbows - they work in so many situations. Splendid.
.The Hospitality
So the aim of this post is to talk about the positives aspects…the genuine Vietnamese hospitality I've encountered so far. Some very warm and comforting hospitality - usually out of the blue. Never demanded, somehow each time it seems to involve food / meal of some sort (ăn cơm!). Oh, and of course..rice wine. Invited and much welcomed to eat, share our foreign knowledge and absorb their way of life.
.The Family Sit-Down Meal
In a few Asian countries, I enjoy how the floor is utilised and a simple method of eating takes place. This is largely so in Vietnamese homes. Sharing is caring and sitting cross-legged on the bamboo laid mat around the numerous delightful dishes of fresh succulent food in full circle is the way to go about it. Much loved.
.Devoured Viet Dishes
It can be tough for a vegetarian since each meal is seemingly plastered with carnivorous cuisines. A meal tends to involve spring rolls, chicken, pork, pig intestines/blood, fish, soup, local (sometimes home-grown) vegetables, tofu, baby eggplant, cucumber, mint leaves, lime leaves, rice…. I’ve sampled the occasional duck (as per below), duck blood in cold soup style - flavoured and with peanuts (surprisingly very tasty!), barbecued squid, and er..dog. Yes. I’ve tried the poor pet…also along with the poor pigs, poor chickens, poor ducks.
How could I say no....?
One example of how the food arrived..
Much of the food is extremely fresh. Exquisite. It was fun visiting the tiny local market with Van. As we left to make our way home, her mother passed her a very recently purchased live pure white duck of which she carried by its wings in its strain. After my squeamish refusal of holding the poor thing, this resulted in beautiful girl Van doing what women do best; multi-tasking. Whilst the duck was calmly placed in her left hand and me sat behind her on the motorbike (helpless me), in her innocent and jaded manner we returned along the bumpy roads back to her village (note: motorbike multi-tasking seems to be the norm here). The contrast had me giggling. As I kept well away from the kitchen, I left her father to do the rest of the business. An hour or so later, we were sat cross-legged on the bamboo mat around the freshly boiled succulent duck.
*Welcome to Asia*
.A meal is not a meal without this beverage..
...It’s hard to say no. Infact, it's an insult. Which leads me to rice wine. A meal cannot go ahead without rice wine (or plum/apple/corn wine - which are equally as tasty, if not, more). Typically this drinking style takes place between Vietnamese men and all foreigners. The fermented rice beverage is pure alcohol; locally produced. Group drinking, paired drinking, you invite me, I invite you, we cheers to life health luck and what-not, we neck it down 100%, and then we full-heartedly handshake…oh dear. Then stuff yourself with as much food as possible to rid the devilled alcohol. "Where’s the water?!" They don’t drink water! "Eat a cucumber instead", they cry! The meal usually results in endless laughter, and mumbled talk…the joy of food has been outweighed by the new thunder of rice wine. Without sounding like a creature with alcoholic tendencies, it seems that rice wine and a Vietnamese sit down meal goes hand in hand. How complimentary!
Note: This does not mean that beer is not involved too. Bia Hoi all the way!
.Cheers
It's been a real pleasure and very grateful to have met, and continually meet such genuine and comedian characters that top it off by hosting some of the best meals. I thank thee for your warm & kind hospitality.
It’s been a BLAST.
cảm ơn nhiều!
Hospitality taken place: Everywhere in Vietnam - but featured on this post: SaPa, BacHa, YenBai, PhuToc.
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