elbows

It’s certainly a vice of mine and probably of many others: The over use of elbows which I believe represents a lazy and ill-mannered attitude.

Leaning on the table, on a desk, whilst talking to friends...and shamefully whilst eating. It’s not that I am keen to present this lazy attitude, it’s just that, somehow it’s unnervingly …..comfortable? Anyway I’m aware, and I will continue hoping that my awareness overcomes my comfortableness.

Aside from these cons of elbow usage, I realised the importance of these joints of ours whilst venturing through a few countries, particularly in social situations.









a Riolisation

A naïve wanderer at the time, I recall being caught up in a post Brazilian Football party in 2007. It was team Flamengo’s and a joyous, proud and blaring fan bunch were celebrating their victory amidst an outdoor street party (or makeshift crowded party, I shall say) in the affluent Gávea residential neighbourhood of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Cheery Flamengo chants emanated and were continually becoming heavier and heavier. Jumping around with glee, it was clear the ratio of men to women was by far miles higher. Being one of few girls in the crowds brought on an array of unwanted craved attention and hassle from the forward Brazilian boys. Infact, 'intrusive' springs to mind! Well, it was fairly funny at the time, but try teaming that with a boy who could not keep away for more than half the time we were there. This persistent boy clearly wasn't playing it very cool, as I believe it may have been a slight alcoholic intoxication that heightened his persistent manoeuvres. An older bunch of male onlookers had clocked on and noticed (how could you not?!) this unrequited attention, I looked at them helplessly but realised they wouldn’t dare speak up to protect for fear of interfering this homeboy’s chase. The only advice they offered me was, “Use your elbows. That’s what they’re there for…”. Uhmmm. Gee, thanks. Obrigada, guys....!? I obeyed. So out were my pointy joints and a whole load of fierce nudging was exerted. This tactic proved slightly helpful…How silly of me not to realise in my timid and naïve behaviour, sooner. As weak as this advice sounded to me at the time, it proved to be smart and wise advice in the long-term. That IS what they’re there for! Thanks for not physically helping you affluent, trendy and rowdy bunch of Carioca-football-supporters, your verbal advice would happily remind me of these 'lethal weapon/shield-helpful' part of the body in years to come…



do not jump the 'queue'/touch: elbows on the attack
From then on, elbows suddenly became more convenient in a number of situations or perhaps I had become aware of it, namely in “queues” or should I say in “bundled mass”. This was seemingly apparent in Vietnamese and Indian shores. I often find it a challenged and hilarious scenario when a local ignores all aims of a queue and jumps directly and blatantly in front of my 'polite' self whilst I’m in my civil western-minded queue thoughts. Why is this funny? I might hear you cry. Well, that is the opportunity for when I can use my assertive “I’m in the right” styled behviour and jump/squeeze back in front. Using the elbows had been helpful in so many situations; particularly at bus or train stations and their ticketing offices. A bit of elbow pushin’ and shovin’ did the trick to help retain that special place in the everso ambiguous'queue', and what makes this friendly pushin' and shovin' easier is that no-one is offended! 'tis the norm over yonder. Gently pushing the elbows out with money in hand and to protect and defend one’s space. Fair is fair.

On par with Elbows on the attack, I recall other scenarios in India where a handful of crafty, perverted and sly Indian men would try their best to "touch". It wasn't pleasant, no. Visiting the tailor so innocently, the tailor would hold the dress up against the body or with the tape measure in hand and 'accidentally' slide his hand in areas he shouldn't be sliding his hand on! "Ahem" - The most natural and initial reaction was, of course; ELBOWS! They were out, along with a sharp, "Chalo ya'hasay!" (Go away from me?). Elbows were vital in every case in India.


it takes two to tango: elbows in losing defence
On a flight from Hanoi to Saigon one day in 2011, I noticed the ubiquitous use of elbows and the sharpness they conveyed. On this domestic Jet Star flight, I was allocated a window seat next to a short and very slim country folk lady. Judging from our initial interaction, I didn’t think she’d be a very considerate journey buddy and for once and sadly, I was right! Thank God the flight was a short one, as her elbows had left me feeling a tad frustrated. Her posture was wide and confident and out were her elbows, spanning over my right arm rest and sharply digging into my helpless waist. It was of slight grief to me to be deprived of the comfort I'd expected. I couldn’t conclude whether it was because she was wanting more space, trying to invade mine, claiming her space, being inconsiderate, attacking me, trying to annoy me, if it was a country folk action, or generally just being her natural self in her natural posture? In my defensive mode and with the aim of wanting to retrieve my space back, I decided to mirror my elbows with her elbows. My jolts and pushes were attempting to send silent indirect messages of “Give me my space back!!” , or “What gives you the right to invade my already tight space?!” I tried and I tried and I eventually thought I’d won, but my worrrd, this defiant lady's elbows arrived back on the scene sharper and bonier as can be! As I tried to give up my 'attacking-elbowed' notion, I turned my head around hoping to send an eye contact message whilst simultaneously letting out a (I hate to say it..) 'tut' (tsk!) and a steamy sigh, but was faced with a jaded and careless moped head looking downwards underneath a floppy hat - elbows still widely stretched out lest we not forget. Pffff, I really did decide to surrender and accepted that I'd suffer the rest of the journey with those sharp blade-like nudges…


elbows in the everyday routine
London proposes less use of the elbows. However, I am not one to say I never use my elbows during rush hour on those Underground Tube lines where we are packed in like sardines. They have proved to be a little helpful. I'm sure I'm not the only one to act in this way. Sorry, carriage friends.



I know that this blog post is quite useless, but I really wanted to express a short-ish message across about how I've used my elbows in social travel situations. Or, perhaps I've nothing better to write about?!

Watch it! M'elbows are always at the ready ;)

VN wireisms

Those days in Vietnam in 2012. The area of Ta Van - bliss formations and...the ever-so discrete Wires.

Flower Hmong II - defined versions (they got the blues)

.Flower . flora. fleur. fiore. flor. blume. bloem. hoa. 花. ดอกไม้. फूल. زهرة.


Right! In a previous post I talked of the Flower Hmong - the colourful type typically found in Bac Ha area of the Lao Cai province. They were indeed a colourful, albeit - multicoloured bunch.



.Defining. Types.
Of each group, there will be a sub-group within a sub-group. So we have the Hmong which consist of the Flower Hmong...but then there are variations of these Flower Hmong - and I have probably not seen a fraction of them. Wow.

Here, in these locations headed below, these types of Flower Hmong were found...


>Muong Hum
Muong Hum market once again, these blue ladies were fetching in their sky blue, white and green colours, combined together with silver coins and green beading. Again, they have the very asian style of a wrap over asymmetric top, sometimes arm bands and headscarves, cropped bags, aprons and infamous eye-catching puffy crinkly skirts!

The men of this hill tribe also seem to wear the trendy slick styles too. Cropped top/jackets are definitely way to go, together with high waisted flared trousers. Sleeves, borders and hems of clothing (top half especially)are embellished with decorative features.






>On the road + SaPa
Found these treasures on a weekend day in SaPa and whilst on the road (on motorbike) in the Lao Cai province. I didn't stop to capture them for the latter, though in SaPa, eye-spied their pretty hairstyles from afar in the main square. They had travelled into SaPa to sell their old clothes and textiles; fairly similar to a jumble sale! It's clear that their outfit colours are similar to the other Muong Hum Flower Hmong (blending in with nature colours) - with a differing head dress/style...interesting. It's an art.

What a technique! Buns, ribbons, silver clips, silver comb = a Star Wars style. How did they think of such a style? Adaptions from nature/flora and fauna, perhaps?





Beauties of the nature,
Wowzers x

Viet's Ha Nhi People

A visit to another market was in order...


.Where?

It was the end of April 2012, and this time it was Muong Hum market.

This minute town of Muong Hum literally sits next to China in the Bat Xat District in Lao Cai province of Vietnam (phew!) and is located about 50 uncomfortable kilometres from SaPa. I emphasise the uncomfortableness as a majority of the motorbike road is painstakingly unpaved (as of early 2012); leaving it incredibly slow, bumpy, rocky and dusty along windy, uphill and downhill "roads". As a backseat rider, it really did intensify the pain; adding ache to agony. Whilst I am coming across as a dramatic complainer, I did truly appreciate every tiresome second of this market discovery, as it exposed high mountainous passes, luscious green landscapes, oddly shaped carsts, wide turquoise rivers and wonderful strategically built rice terraces. It was also, in effect, real self-torture...because I was actually on my second visit to Muong Hum (ha!). I'd visited Muong Hum during its non-market day a month or so before.

This time I was looking for a contrast, and a contrast it surely was!





Three hours or so later, we had arrived slightly later than anticipated (roads blamed!), but I was still able to catch a glimpse of what I was in search for - hill tribes in hustle and bustle.

In general, this market is small and far less touristy than other surrounding markets of Vietnam's northwest region given the lengthy travel time and complexities in getting there..so it really did feel rural, local and well... rightly so - real.




.The Ha Nhi Women


>Discoveries
A few tribes were apparent at this market, though this post mainly offers to explore one particular tribe I had witnessed for the first time - EVER. The Ha Nhi people. In my stalker-ish manner once again, I couldn't allow my eyes to avert away from this elegantly looking tribe. Smooth and crisp, their outfits were really outstanding. Their costumes consist of a hat, a blouse, a waistband and a brassiere. I was drawn to the glowing blue colour which had a real shine to it (though they like to think of it being green - not blue!). Their colours steal the show; be it as a headscarf, embroidered on sleeves/borders of clothing or as a bag.

I'd also noticed that some women had their hair styled in a heavy plaited manner, some also wrapped over the head in turbane form. This seems to be an established female Ha Nhi trait: eye-catching, indeed! I was told that this can actually be classed as a hat which is plaited with horse hair! This helps drape over the lady's forehead.


>A snippet: about the Ha Nhi Tribe
The Ha Nhi tribe originates from Tibet. They gradually wandered through China and eventually, some seeped into Vietnam where they have now established themselves in the Lai Chau and Lao Cai provinces. Over 14,000 Ha Nhi live in Vietnam, whereas over 1.2 million are based in China; split into several subgroups. Ha Nhi language belongs to the Tibeto-Burman Group, while their culture is based on ancestor worship.

This particular subgroup in Vietnam use blue (or green as they prefer it!) to blend in with the beauty of nature. The Ha Nhi possess many ancient tales and stories in long verses. And that is widely so exposed in their costume - fringe details portray waves and clouds and flowers are made of silver. Cloth buttons also represent flowers. It takes over one month to complete an outfit for a woman or child - one week of that is spent embroidering the sleeves etc.





.Look @ them. Beaut.
Eyes glued, camera at the ready...please take a gander at some of the photos captured of these meticulously dressed tribal women wandering around busy Muong Hum Market on their liveliest day when they had come out to play; Sunday.










Amongst this market's hustle and bustle,
Aesthetically pleasing and admirably peaceful people,
Captivating,
Enjoy x

The Flower Hmong

Introducing another type of Hmong!
I shall try my best-est to keep this shorter than previous hill tribe posts. And believe me, there will definitely not just be one post about this type'ov Hmong. You will see why...

All tribes are so beautiful in their own unique way, though the Flower Hmong steal the show due to their very eye catching outfits that present an extreme amount of colours that promenade the Vietnamese mountains

This tribe is mainly prevalent in the north eastern area - largely Bắc Hà of the Lào Cai and around. This tribe generally come out to play on their market days. Keep an eye out! .



Costumes: Focusing on the women (since the women are usually the ones that steal the show!), they are highly distinguished ornate in their colourful overflowing gowns. Their outfits are made up of the following:

. Headscarf or Head Ornament - be it colourful of any kind. Though this is usually weather dependent.. i.e. when it's chilly! Ornaments can be beaded.

. Shoulder Cloaks - As they wrap around the neck, they are buttoned with 'Chinese styled buttons' in an asymmetric Chinese manner. Decorative, hand stitched (with a machine, perhaps) and exceptionally colourful. These cloaks may also be attached to a colourful long-sleeved top worn below the cloak. Colourful and intricate beading may also be added to the bottom ends of the cloak or within the fabric.

. Arm Warmers - Usually developed from the same material and patterns as the Shoulder Cloak, these are used for decorative purposes and to keep warm. These may also be attached to the long-sleeved top in their stripy horizontal style.

. Skirt - The infamous Flower Hmong Skirt! Traditional skirts are hand stitched in the same fabric as the Shoulder lock and Arm Warmers. The fabric is heavy, wide and is gathered in multiple layers - which offers a puffed and generous look, along with its intricate colours stitched in a horizontal style. New styled skirts, which are lighter are printed using batik printing.

. Apron - A waist apron is worn, again, in the heavy weighted fabric, this time, with a vertical stripy pattern to contrast the horizontal skirt lines. This may assist with warmth, to wash hands and generally for decorative purposes. It is tied up at the back of the lady.


. Leg Warmers - Again, the same material might be used and the horizontal pattern is used.

. Shoes- Shoes are the obvious plastic sandals, frequently imported from neighbouring China. Used for trekking, rice paddy fielding, farming....everything a Flower Hmong can do!

. Baby Carrier- These are very popular and are usually a customised form of the apron. The stripes are to be vertical and colourful!



Colours The key word here is bright. It's important to use bright attentive colours, such as reds, pinks, oranges, purples, blues.. with traces of lighter colours - green, yellow, greens... beauty! A reminder that this only apples to the women.


That's all for the Flower Hmongs. They are absolutely wonderful. The photos will aid this post more than the text I reckon! See next posts for more information. Thanks x

The Black Hmong

Historic Hmong Snippet: The Hmongs are the most popular ethnic minority within the Indo-China region (Thai, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam). Like the Dao people (see previous post), the Hmong people originated from southern China, but once again, due to the struggles against feudalist China, they emigrated to the areas of northern Vietnam. This occurred in the 19th century and it is here they began to build hamlets in the regions of Lao Cai and Ha Giang (the northern-most regions of Vietnam).

As the Hmong people ventured out to various regions, they began to develop and differentiate themselves from one another and thus, built various sub-groups. A common language (Hmong) albeit different dialects is spoken, culturally very similar, but a large visual difference - and that is, again, their textiles and dress. Note: These sub-groups don't seem to have any disputes with one another and seem to get along, just fine! ;)


Discovering & exploring: Being highly captivated by these various dress styles and detail, I managed to find various tribes in the region. Focusing on the Hmong people, I discovered a couple of them, but sure I'll focus on them one by one. It's here I give you...





The Black Hmong. Ah, the famous Black Hmong. I've mentioned this hill tribe in a previous post http://maysanw.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/hmong-robots.html. Yep, they continue to pester and sell their clothing and accessories, but this is clearly their livelihood.

Textiles: "It is believed that whether their houses are beautiful and of good quality depends on the husbands, and whether they are wearing beautiful clothes and their children are taken care of or not depends upon the wives". Thus, the women must hone good embroidery skills to present their skilfulness and ability to work hard. In addition, handmaking their cloth from scratch - using the hemp they grow in their beautiful rice-terraced fields and hand-dyeing using indigo plants grown amongst the hemp.

Their colour is distinct and although is stated as 'black', it tends to be more of a dark, dark indigo colour - hence, being grown from indigo plants. Hand and natural dyeing is a tradition, however, it seems that due to tourism, the Hmongs know too well that chemical dyeing and buying cloth from the market (imported from China usually) is a speedier way of creating these profitable textiled products! This seems to have made its mark in the product market. But behold! Tradition still stands - as below indicates...Yet again, women are responsible for the dyeing process.


Traditional fabric: Fabric is made from the strong and resisting fibre; Hemp. The hemp plant surrounds the Hmong villages and is often grown in March of the lunar calender and due to its speedy growth - is harvested after two months.

Once harvested, the following takes place....

.The hemp is air-dried and peeled into threads.
.The threads are then ground in a mortar.
.They are then are then hung on beams within their homes and flattened.
.Two or three days later, they are rolled into big rolls, then eventually spun.
.The hemp is then boiled and spun into rolls of thread by a reel. [1kg of hemp threads can take two or three days].
.Hemp threads are joined and spun into threads. [Women learn at the tender age of 6 or 7 years old to spin the hemp - and learnt either by their mothers, grandmothers, sisters, or self-taught!]
.To strain hemp threads into longer ones, the spun hemp threads are boiled with wax many times.
.Once removed from the liquid, they are flattened by a stone or a piece of wood, and air-dried until the yarns are shiny and smooth.
.The yarn is then spun onto a large reel (khau li ) to make longer yarns which are then stretched on the loom. [This type of process is only performed on sunny days to prevent tangling of yarns].



Weaving: Most women are apt on weaving. Not all families will own a loom. Those without a loom, are to rent a loom or weaver.



Tailoring clothes: The women are also skilled to tailor clothing and traditionally stick by the lunar calender. Therefore, dresses and trousers are made in September or November at the latest, in time for the Tet holiday (new year).

Once woven...



How the Black Hmong become 'black'
Welllll...not quite black. Indigo!
Indigo plants are the instigator for the black coloured clothing. Indigo plant seeds are often planted in April or May and harvested in June. The Hmong follow an auspicious calendar, that said, the indigo must be planted at the beginning of the month i.e. the lucky days, to avoid worms and diseases that may come about if planted at the end of the month. In addition, the indigo must be harvested at the correct time. Failing to do so may lead to, weak older leaves and the resin will not be good as expected.

From plant - to resin - to dye Once the indigo is cut, it is soaked in water for 2-3 days. As soon as the water turns black, dissolved powdered lime is mixed and stirred in for thirty minutes which turns the water into a shiny black. After three hours, indigo resin condenses to the bottom of the bucket. This is put into a pack and filtered into a dry resin.

The resin is then mixed with water in wooden or plastic buckets and sediments are then filtered. Once again, this may take place on auspicious days - specific days may be chosen, such as days of tigers, buffaloes, dragons, chickens or horses, instead of days of pigs.

Hmong tradition also suggests that pregnant women are not to touch the buckets of indigo resin as they will cause the indigo to die (note: alive buckets of indigo will form a foam). When mixing the indigo, men are not allowed to stay in the house, except the woman's husband.



Indigo dyeing Yet again, women are responsible for the dyeing process. When dyeing the fabric, the indigo must be consistently stirred. If there is no trace of foam (i.e. indigo has died), the process must be restarted. After each dyeing stage which can take 30 minutes, the cloth is air-dried and is continued another twenty times or so, or at least until the Hmongs are content. They may press their fingers onto the surface of the cloth. If no white gaps are present, this means that the piece of cloth has been beautifully dyed.

Embroidery Like the Red Daos, the Black Hmong also enjoy embroidering and believe that all women should be involved and know how to embroider to show skilfulness and ability. Different patterns are embroidered on Hmong peoples' clothing.

- Spiral patterns are common on belts, collars of female clothing. Patterns on belts are larger than those on collars.

- Pumpkin flower patterns are common on collars of male clothing. Male costume patterns are usually smaller.

- Patterns on sleeves are created on female clothing. The patterns are often smaller and different patterns are created such as dragons, stars and more recently, hearts.



Wax patterns In Hmong history, Hmong people who went into the forest to collect honey came across forests of indigo. They found that wax would stick to their clothing and indigo would dye their clothing. As they peeled away the wax, the original white coloured hemp was left on those areas of the cloth. This was considered to be beautiful. Hmong people would thank the bees for this discovery which leads to another style, and process..Wax patterns. Wax drawings are drawn onto the un-dyed hemp cloth. A paintbrush is immersed into the melted wax and is then used to draw onto the fabric. Numerous brushes are used to draw different patterns. Since bees were the path to their discovery, they are popularly featured on the clothing patterns.






Other decorative features...


Earrings Hmong girls adorned with large hooped metal earrings also signify that this girl is married. The earrings are traditionally made by their husbands where they will batter and emboss the metal. Intricate and detailed, heavy and jingly. Other jewellery is worn for decoration, such as heavy necklaces and bracelets.


Hats Round black hollow hats are again not compulsory in the costume but for extra decoration, and to veer off the cold conditions that the Hmongs experience through winter months. They tend to be more popular amongst the older female population.






Hairstyles Girls leave their hair growing long , extremely healthy looking. Once the girl has married, she will tie her hair in an intricate manner, as shown below.

Note: As the girls do not wash their hair too often, it becomes oilier, thus the natural oils help maintain the married Hmong girl's hairstyle and shape.




Discovered So, that was a small summary of the beautiful Black Hmong. Their mountain beauty is projected well through their costumes. I very much enjoyed integrating and finding out the information. See below for my experience with embroidery on the 3 step patterns - it was not easy, and I'm definitely not up to their speed!