Viet's Ha Nhi People

A visit to another market was in order...


.Where?

It was the end of April 2012, and this time it was Muong Hum market.

This minute town of Muong Hum literally sits next to China in the Bat Xat District in Lao Cai province of Vietnam (phew!) and is located about 50 uncomfortable kilometres from SaPa. I emphasise the uncomfortableness as a majority of the motorbike road is painstakingly unpaved (as of early 2012); leaving it incredibly slow, bumpy, rocky and dusty along windy, uphill and downhill "roads". As a backseat rider, it really did intensify the pain; adding ache to agony. Whilst I am coming across as a dramatic complainer, I did truly appreciate every tiresome second of this market discovery, as it exposed high mountainous passes, luscious green landscapes, oddly shaped carsts, wide turquoise rivers and wonderful strategically built rice terraces. It was also, in effect, real self-torture...because I was actually on my second visit to Muong Hum (ha!). I'd visited Muong Hum during its non-market day a month or so before.

This time I was looking for a contrast, and a contrast it surely was!





Three hours or so later, we had arrived slightly later than anticipated (roads blamed!), but I was still able to catch a glimpse of what I was in search for - hill tribes in hustle and bustle.

In general, this market is small and far less touristy than other surrounding markets of Vietnam's northwest region given the lengthy travel time and complexities in getting there..so it really did feel rural, local and well... rightly so - real.




.The Ha Nhi Women


>Discoveries
A few tribes were apparent at this market, though this post mainly offers to explore one particular tribe I had witnessed for the first time - EVER. The Ha Nhi people. In my stalker-ish manner once again, I couldn't allow my eyes to avert away from this elegantly looking tribe. Smooth and crisp, their outfits were really outstanding. Their costumes consist of a hat, a blouse, a waistband and a brassiere. I was drawn to the glowing blue colour which had a real shine to it (though they like to think of it being green - not blue!). Their colours steal the show; be it as a headscarf, embroidered on sleeves/borders of clothing or as a bag.

I'd also noticed that some women had their hair styled in a heavy plaited manner, some also wrapped over the head in turbane form. This seems to be an established female Ha Nhi trait: eye-catching, indeed! I was told that this can actually be classed as a hat which is plaited with horse hair! This helps drape over the lady's forehead.


>A snippet: about the Ha Nhi Tribe
The Ha Nhi tribe originates from Tibet. They gradually wandered through China and eventually, some seeped into Vietnam where they have now established themselves in the Lai Chau and Lao Cai provinces. Over 14,000 Ha Nhi live in Vietnam, whereas over 1.2 million are based in China; split into several subgroups. Ha Nhi language belongs to the Tibeto-Burman Group, while their culture is based on ancestor worship.

This particular subgroup in Vietnam use blue (or green as they prefer it!) to blend in with the beauty of nature. The Ha Nhi possess many ancient tales and stories in long verses. And that is widely so exposed in their costume - fringe details portray waves and clouds and flowers are made of silver. Cloth buttons also represent flowers. It takes over one month to complete an outfit for a woman or child - one week of that is spent embroidering the sleeves etc.





.Look @ them. Beaut.
Eyes glued, camera at the ready...please take a gander at some of the photos captured of these meticulously dressed tribal women wandering around busy Muong Hum Market on their liveliest day when they had come out to play; Sunday.










Amongst this market's hustle and bustle,
Aesthetically pleasing and admirably peaceful people,
Captivating,
Enjoy x